There's no better moment to make tomato soup than when tomatoes are perfectly ripe and plentiful. Even in the summer, Jacques Pépin likes this creamless soup best when it's served hot, with a drizzle of Basil Oil on top. It's also excellent served chilled and lean, without the butter enrichment. To transform the soup into a fresh tomato sauce, reduce the water that's added in the beginning to 1/2 cup.

Ingredients

• 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup avocado oil
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 2 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 sprig fresh oregano
• 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cut into 2-inch chunks (about 5 cups)
• 2 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Directions

1. Make the basil oil: Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Stir in the basil and cook just until the water returns to a boil. Drain the basil in a colander and rinse under cold water. Drain again, then press the leaves between your palms to remove as much water as possible.
2. Combine the basil with the avocado oil and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Refrigerate the basil oil until ready to use.
3. Make the soup: Heat olive oil in a large heavy saucepan. Add the onion, garlic, thyme and oregano and cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, salt, pepper and 1 1/4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Pass the soup through the fine disk of a food mill.
4. Rewarm the soup. Add the butter a little at a time, stirring between additions. Pour the soup into 4 soup plates or bowls and drizzle 1 tablespoon of the basil oil over each serving.