This velvety chowder is packed with plump oysters and tender fingerling potatoes, plus a kick of heat from dried red chiles.

Ingredients

• 4 ounces smoky bacon, such as benton’s (see note), cut into 1-by- 1/4- inch matchsticks
• 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
• 2 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken
• 4 small celery ribs, finely chopped
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 fennel bulb, finely chopped
• 2 quarts fish stock or 1 quart bottled clam broth with 1 quart of water
• 1 stick unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 pound fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch rounds
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• salt
• freshly ground pepper
• 1 pint freshly shucked oysters with their liquor
• tabasco, for serving

Directions

1. In a large pot, cook the bacon over moderately high heat, stirring, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat in the pot. Add the rosemary and chiles to the pot and cook for 1 minute. Add the celery, onion and fennel and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the fish stock and bring to a simmer.
2. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the flour and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the roux is the color of peanut butter, about 5 minutes. Scrape the roux into the soup and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes and simmer until tender and the soup has thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cream, season with salt and pepper and return to a simmer.
3. Add the oysters and bacon to the soup and simmer until the oysters are just cooked, about 3 minutes. Spoon the chowder into deep bowls and serve with Tabasco.